"The collection for explores the idea of conscious confinement and wilful enclosure. The Ying/Yang design was used throughout the collection as a possibly reference to a euro-techno recording label and a nudge to the "Waves" ethos which is summed up beautifully here: Raf Simons AW04 "Waves" Paisley Yin/Yang Crewneck Pullover. Moto details include adjustable leather waist straps, padded details, zippered pockets and wrist zips. Unique to this season however, a handful of these designs were printed on garments with biker details which were indicative by padded knees, shoulders and zips on limb ends to tuck boots or gloves under. Pants, hoodies, tees and shirts sported graphics of said mascots and logos. The season featured nostalgic motifs from middle America varsity sports and school mascots.
The varsity theme is one of the few themes that stays unique to only two years: 20. The 'Man' line typically reintroduces multiple themes and designs from Watanabe's time capsule which borrows or reissues from older seasons - Most common being the "poem" designs which were released in 2001, 2005, 2008/09 and recently. Many forget that Junya Watanabe's "Man" line is unlike his more focused self titled women's which roots original ideas from season to season. Junya Watanabe SS06 "Arkansas Football" Varsity Moto Jacket in Red. Right pocket is blown out and needs repair. At the same time, the collection reflects on the process of growing up and (re)considering adulthood, citing references to childhood dress codes, formal business looks and ghetto rebellion."Ĭleanly executed crossover of a puffer jacket and moto jacket, which nods to two different functions and styles from two worlds and tailors them harmoniously together. Puffer jacket is structured as a moto jacket and sought to be fitted close to the chest. Linked to the aesthetics of Peter Saville, there are also touches of early Russian Constructivism, Bauhaus and vintage British looks. The collection itself focuses on traditional styles and fabrics, augmented by a mod influence. As a long-time admirer of Peter Saville, Raf Simons considers this a great honour, and therefore dedicates his collection to the man who put an unique spin on music culture. Raf Simons made a personal selection of Saville-designed works (some of them previously unseen) to integrate them into his collection. "This season, Raf Simons was granted full access to the archives of Peter Saville. Simons's "Closer" touches base with his roots to music, especially with Joy Division and New Order, with Raf's Peter Saville admiration spearheading the entire collection. Raf Simons AW03 "Closer" Puffer Down Moto Jacket in a dark navy.
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